South of another Border: Kyrgyzstan Day 1

Day 1: Friday, July 11th

Well, this was more than slightly delayed. For this, as there were so many parts to tell and so many impressions to include, I decided to post these as separate stories rather than one large compilation of my experience in Kyrgyzstan. It's in more of a journal format than the past ones, but I felt that was the best way to go over the weekend.

After completing my days's work at the orphanage, I skipped the provided lunch and headed back to the dorm with K, who had some travel agency business to take care of. Spending my last time of the week in the internet room (yes the internet room), Zhanat arrived to guide me and make sure I didn't accidentally end up stranded in Tajikistan.
 

Zhanat and I planning out our trip in the dorm

We rode the bus for a few stops before getting off  near the home of one of Zhanat's relatives to drop off her "notebook." Now, I offered to carry her notebook when she said this, as it didn't make sense to me why she would find it necessary to drop off a binder. It was only afterwards that I realized "notebook" meant laptop computer, making a great deal more sense. We walked the remainder to the bus station, only 15 minutes.  Finally, we arrived at the bus station, and for 1,300 T ($7), purchased a ride to Bishkek, over 200 Kilometers away.

 
The bus ride was chaotic. Any traffic laws mean nothing on the road from Almaty to Bishkek. The entire trip is cars playing leap frog with each other while barely avoiding head on collisions. Still, the ride was interesting. On the way I saw multiple herds of animals unconstrained by fences but rather guided by men on horses. Also, I saw multiple yurts, which until then I had assumed were merely artifacts of culture rather than something still used. Amusingly adding on to this, nearly every vendor on the road, even some yurts, had a "Coca Cola" banner hung on the mantel. For almost the entire time, there was a stunning view of the mountains beyond the plains and foothills around us.

 Finally, after 4 or 5 hours, we arrived at the Kazakh-Kyrgyz border. The only border I've ever been across on land is the US-Canada Border. So, seeing the barbed wire, no man's land, and security on this border was quite a shock. We exited the bus as Zhanat hurried me through the gates, warning of the holdups possible. However, the customs in Kazakhstan's side brightened the mood significantly as, when he held up my passport smiled, pumped his fist and said "Obama!" The Kyrgyz side was more solemn, but actually quick. This was very different from the experience I had heard from Marko, MJ, and Bretislav during their trip before. We exited as one of the first of our bus to make it to the other side. After waiting some time for the bus, it finally got through and quickly picked up those available, leaving without almost half the bus.

 
Many differences was immediately clear between Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. On the radio, a Russian speaking man would be brief before introducing various English language songs (though sung by Kyrgyz performers). Signs were much harder to discern, as Kyrgyzstan, while adding letters necessary for their Turkic language in addition to utilizing the Russian alphabet, does not add so many indicators as the Kazakh alphabet does.  However the most interesting part was reaching Bishkek itself. As one intern who lived in Bishkek for a while remarked: "It makes Almaty look like New York." I can certainly understand this, as when the bus stopped I never realized we entered a city. I hadn't seen a single building over four stories tall. In fact, I saw far more trees than buildings.
 
After getting off the bus, we struggled to find the hostel Zhanat's friends owned, with unclear bus routes and an uncertain destination. Finally, with the help of a friendly taxi driver's patience, we found the hostel. Unfortunately, all the beds were taken, however this just meant that I got to sleep on the couch at no cost!

 Zhanat's friends were extremely friendly, and we soon left to have a meal before stores closed. I wanted to have Шашлык when we arrived (have I mentioned I love Шашлык?) , but unfortunately this would take too long and we were planning to take our food to go. Instead, I tried a new dish: Куурдак ( Kuurdak ). It was delicious, though actually fairly familiar as it comprised of a combination of beef, potatoes, and onions not foreign in the United States.

 
Afterwards, we relaxed some in a club next to the hostel called the "Black Rabbit" blasting dubstep renditions of songs people from any country would know like "Happy" and "Gangnam Style." I was pleased to meet another American there, (From California), along with many other very interesting international travelers from a variety of countries from Australia to Poland. 

However, I left early as to get enough sleep. The next day, I would be waking up early to see Bishkek before we head out to Issyk Kul.